🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. But, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.